Almost where the North Sea meets the Atlantic and in the path of old Norse trade routes, lies Foula, one of Shetland’s remote islands. The island has been inhabited since the Neolithic Age and is unique in many ways. It has a number of international designations - Site of Special Scientific Interest for its flora and fauna as well as for the geomorphology of its coastline. And it is also a Special Protection Area for its birds. The island has a small ferry that goes to the ‘mainland’ once a week, weather permitting - a rough 2-hour trip. The harbour is fairly protected, but the seas are so wild that they hoist the boat out of the water when it is not in use. That means 6 out of 7 days a week as storms can blow out of nowhere. Weather notwithstanding, it’s a place where I think I’d quite like to live - for a time!
We spent the entire morning wandering the cliff tops and hillsides looking at flowers, but also birds. The backdrop was breathtaking in a wonderfully quiet and gentle way - clouds of mist came and went over magnificent hills, stone cottages and walls, Shetland ponies and sheep shedding their coats, flower-decked cliffs like high-rise apartments dotted with fulmars nesting in tiny ‘cliff gardens’ - fulmars are quiet birds but if you get too close or threaten them, they regurgitate a foul-smelling ‘oil’ which is pretty bad I’m told. Skylarks fluttering high above our heads singing their hearts out and close in to shore Harbour Seals as well as Grey Seals kept track of our progress. The peaty ground, soft under foot, was potholed by grazing sheep and ponies as well as rabbits - not to mention peat cutters. Absolutely magical! Everywhere we came across yellow iris. They are so bright. The children make boats out of the leaves. With the fog sliding down the hill, I was totally enraptured. So peaceful.
My small group was fortunately to have a very knowledgeable woman as its guide - Sheila Gear the island’s matriarch, whose family have been Foula islanders for many generations. We finished at the schoolhouse-cum-community centre for morning tea with cakes made by the kids and locals - there are just 35 people living on the island and everyone mucks in for absolutely everything. The climate is harsh at times, but Foula is a glorious, magical place and the people open and friendly. It was a place to dream, I loved it!
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| The tiny protected harbour and ferry which is lifted out of the water between runs |
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| Words can’t describe this wee paradise! To me, it must be one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen. |
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| The Shetland ponies in their native land are adorable. This wee foal is a month old and just a metre tall! |
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| The roof of this old house is tarred sailcloth, maybe more durable than thatch but not insurable! |
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| Idyllic moody landscape, emblazoned with blazing yellow irises |
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| We walked through lush patches of orchids and silverweed - and other lovely things. |
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| This is a Northern Marsh Orchid. Quite small - 25cm. |
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| These pretty Red Campions were a vivid blaze in the lush green and along the roadside |
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| The skeleton of an old fishing boat is now the home of this nesting Northern Fulmar. |
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| The quite lush gardens are walled against the sheep which eat anything and everything |
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| Heath Spotted-orchid with Cotton-grass in the background |
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| Old peat fields on the cliff now covered in Cotton-grass. |
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| ‘Fulmar cliff mansions’. A tranquil spot for nesting. Each fulmar pair had its own wee 'garden' |
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