June 22 From St Columba to Fingal’s Cave

With archeological evidence of human habitation dating back to the Mesolithic Age (9000-4000 BC), Oban was an ideal port to start our expedition of wild, ancient Scotland. In fact everywhere we went there were ancient, crumbled ruins - and us as well! Lowering skies and craggy coastline provided a perfect introduction to Scotland’s Western Isles. Toss in a bottle of bubbles and chocolates (waiting for us in our wee cabin for our wedding anniversary) and it was a wonderful start!

First morning at sea brought fair weather which was to follow us throughout our expedition. After an enormous breakfast and wriggling into wet pants, rain jacket, gum boots, hat, gloves, life jacket and then over the top of all that our backpacks plus walking sticks of course, we picked our way carefully down the gangway and lurched clumsily into the zodiacs - only to do that all again in reserve at the end of each little excursion. We were off to visit Iona, a tiny island off the coast of Mull. 

It was here in C6th AD that a group of Irish monks, led by St Columba, arrived from Ireland in leather-covered boats and established a monastery. So it was that Christianity spread throughout Scotland and England. 

We were very fortunate to be travelling with a Scottish archaeologist and historian. She was also a brilliant weaver of fascinating stories as well as having an encyclopaedic knowledge on the history of Scotland - a regular Dr Google. 

Talk about steep learning curves! Meso- and Neo-lithic Ages, the Bronze Age. The Vikings ‘invaded’ the Hebrides and other Scottish islands on their trade route in C8th and for about 7 centuries a large part of ‘Scotland’ was under Norwegian rule. I didn’t know any of that - and so many other things!

That second afternoon we loaded up again for the Island of Staffa (pillar island) so called because of its tall dolerite columns - much like the columns on the southern coast of Tasmanian and Northern Ireland’s Giants causeway. We poked into the island’s famous Fingal’s Cave before heading on to a puffin colony. My heart sank when I saw the height of the cliff we had to scale, but it was worth the steep climb to watch thousands of adorable puffins landing and taking off again out to sea to fish. Absolutely amazing sight but physically exhausting - I was yet to get into my stride, still waiting!!

Lindsay warming up his camera

The cross beam of this and other crosses could be extended it seems but in order to take the weight the circle of stone was added. That design was later to become the style of the Celtic cross.

Iona had become a place of religious retreat and contemplation

We happened upon a wedding at the Iona Abbey but once this place was the burial ground of early Scottish kings.

You have to try going out to sea on a zodiac. Gives you a whole new perspective on life.

The dolerite columns which give this island its name- Staffa

Going into Fingal’s Cave 

The colours and atmosphere were awesome. 

An tiny island of worn columns 

Our kayakers were amazing. Paddling up to 20 kms day. Our wee ship is off on the right top.

Our people walking to the the puffin cliffs

Some just lay in the grass to watch the birds

Adorable!!