Friday 2 November 2018

November 1 - Cape Woolamai

Cape Woolamai at the eastern end of Phillip island is worth a visit - in fact it’s worth a revisit! As Miriam Blaker (Out an About http://outanabout.com) says ‘Enjoy the journey and the destination whether it’s your first or fifth time .... the real voyage of discovery consists not of seeking new landscapes but in having new eyes’. 

Having just recently ooh-ed and ah-ed over land formations and vegetation in other countries, this visit to a familiar part of Victoria has certainly been seen through new, freshly curious and appreciative eyes. We’re loving it! Travel really opens your eyes and mind. 

So back to Cape Woolamai ... apart from breathtaking land and seascapes, it is a site of geological significance. The Cape is a granite peninsula of Devonian origin approx 360 million years old and is one of the highest granite massifs in Victoria. It is also important from a fauna and flora perspective. A dozen or so rare or threatened plants species have been recorded here and are now part of a preservation and revegetation program. It is also a significant breeding location for wildlife such as the Short-tailed Shearwater (also known as the Australian muttonbird and, on the Furneaux Islands, moonbirds). These amazing birds migrate 16,000 odd Km each year to the Bering Sea in the Northern hemisphere for the boreal summer - and back again to breed in SE Australia. They are burrowing birds like the adorable Little Penguins who have for many decades, drawn 100s of thousands of visitors to Phillip Island each year. 

We saw burrows along the cliffs of Cape Woolamai yesterday. We assumed they belonged to the penguin, but they could very well have belonged to shearwaters as this is the largest breeding colony on Phillip Island. Like the penguins, the shear-waters return to their nests after dark. But as a little bonus, we saw a pair of hooded plovers nesting on the long, almost deserted, stretch of beach facing Bass Strait.

Glorious walk along the beach towards the Pinnacles with one eye on slaty grey clouds already leaking earthwards from approaching cloud banks. We didn’t quite make it to the headland, but loved every sand-squeaking step, our eyes all the while combing the beach for treasures. Simple things eh!?


Part of the track was inaccessible - said she with a huge sigh of relief!!


Wind and water erosion reveals rich orange sands.


The Pinnacles- I could gaze at scenes like this all day. Sand, sea and sky, even when it is bleeding - splendid!


cliff collapses reveal the roots of vegetation desperately trying to hold it all together. Natural grasses are being reintroduced.


What do you reckon? Penguin or shearwaters? They were a reasonable way up the dune but penguins are pretty tenacious.




Waves teetered shimmering and luminous grey green before smashing down in frothy delight on foamy sands. I could .... well I already said that but I have to say the water beckoned. And I thought I was a fire sign 🔥! There must be more earth in me than I thought.


What a palette!


November 2 - Western Port Bay

We woke to squally wind, rain thrown at us in large soaking dollops, the occasional thunder clap and the crashing of waves! Where in the heck are we? Camped one metre from the water (at high tide) on the eastern shore of Western Port Bay. Why? A better question would be ‘why not?’
For me Western Port was always synonymous with Phillip Island - hot summers, seals, penguins, winds, sunburn, etc, but Western Port is rich in biodiversity and is part of a UNESCO Biosphere reserve as well as a Ramsar site. And as I discovered yesterday, there are actually 5 islands in Western Port - Phillip, French, Churchill, Elizabeth, and Sandstone - I hadn’t heard of the last two. Interesting! 
A visit to Phillip Island yesterday had us hanging over cliff barriers watching waves spilling their awesome energy on a rocky shore torn away from Tassy 1000s of years ago. Family gaggles of Cape Barren geese still get the connection, breeding as they do along the islands of Bass Strait and beyond. Lovely creatures with their lettuce green beaks and softly patterned feathers. 
Talking of feathers, we happened upon a small family of masked lap wings, the 3 babies tiny balls of piebald fluff on toothpick legs. Mum and Dad were busy making sure we didn’t come near. Also saw a few young Cape Barren goslings but most were teenagers. 

Could almost throw a line in !
Fascinating to watch the endless dance between water and wind creating swirling patterns in the water surface.



This is where we’re camped
First morning the water was quietly papping the sea wall. This morning the waves were almost breaking over it.
What’s not to like! We sank a few glasses of wine as the sun sank - and the evening gathering of insects began - busy little critters ☹️
This was a mixed group parents (one off in the trees), 3 young adults and one little fuzz ball. A second clutch perhaps?
The bird on the left was obviously a parent and ran towards me daring me to come closer - I backed off.
Out at Nobbies flocks of geese were chomping in the grass. Love the patterns on their feathers.

Words are superfluous
The next few pix were live as I attempted to capture the power of the waves. Not sure they worked but it was engrossing.





The bridge over to Churchill Island

September - October and then some .....

Apart from local travel, we've taken in some Fringe festival events and concerts including a delightful evening listening to the Melbourne University orchestra performing some exciting new compositions at the Recital centre. We've caught up with friends and family and played in the garden - and yes of course, cooked (updating the Pinging Chook Blog shortly)!
I'm getting a general overhaul and health servicing - I wish! Doctors doctors and more doctors, therapist and more therapists.  But this is all good because I am working towards being fit enough to keep up with Lindsay to climb Mt Yasur Volcano, Tanna island, Vanuatu in Decemeber. Should be exciting as it is said that the locals cannot remember a time when the volcano wasn’t coughing up its blazing entrails. Wahoo! Lindsay will be in volcano heaven. 
And of course I have to be good to climb up and down gangways and go bobbing around in zodiacs next year on the Barents and Greenland Seas (all part of the Arctic Ocean).
But for now it's time to hustle into the kitchen to try to remember how I used to cook lambs fry, bacon and onions. Bon appetite until next time. 

Mr Cool, Craig Newman, cranking it out with a jazz combo performing at The Salon.

Melbourne University orchestra performing at the Recital centre. Exciting new compositions. A delightful evening.

Two strong Australian feminists in conversation - at the iconic Athenaeum Theatre hosted by the Wheeler Centre. An amazing evening shared with the sisterhood! It ain’t over yet!!!

A bucket of strawberry jam to aid the industry - one hopes.

Second jammingbeffirt. This time grapefruit and ginger

A day in the garden cleaning up and planting herbs, tomatoes and citrus fir summer.

I threw this one in because it just fascinated me. Lichen of two varieties. The silver green one had strange raised structures on one surface. Respirators? Salt excretion? Anyone know?

Mt Yasur, Taman Island in Vanuatu. On the list for December 2018. Wish me luck 🤞



October 11 Another escape to the country!

This time we headed off for a 'baker's week' - like a 'bakers dozen' - one extra for good measure! we based ourselves in Mansfield in a quiet little spot in a room with a view at Mansfield Valley Motor Inn. From there we ventured out into north-east Victoria to Mt Buller, King Valley and the surrounding gourmet region. 

After climbing Mt Buller (in the car), narrowly missing a female lyre bird who erupted from the roadside scrub and careered across the road, a road I might say with more hairpins than an ancient Aunty. Well after that ...  we emerged in a mini suburbia almost. The snow village development on Mt Buller is staggering and somewhat disconcerting on this quiet and lovely mountain top, this panaramic veranda overlooking the roof of Victoria.  Down the mountain, we stopped for a picnic and a wander in the Mirimbah Conservation Reserve tucked under Mount Stirling. Totally peaceful except for the incessant chattering of birds and the crazy babbling monologue of the rushing mountain stream. We collected 'pine' cones and inspected trees, followed the path of weird looking insects and of course looked for birds. Pretty nice way to spend a few lazy hours. 

Next day we headed for the King River Valley and a pub lunch at the Whitfield pub - deep dark squid ink pasta with crab and prawns - deeelish! Of course we never visit King River region without going to Walk About Honey to stock up. We came away loaded up with goodies - olives, honey and other tid bits. We'll be back for new seasons fruit and walnuts after Christmas. Just love it there! 

And through the hills back to Mansfield the fragrance of the bush was heavenly - peppermint gum, candle bark, wattle, bushes smelling of the spicy, heady aroma of cloves conjuring a flash memory of tooth ache. Royal purple hovea curling around low bushes.  A totally delightful day.

All too soon it was time to head for home but we took the slow scenic route via a pub lunch of heavenly lemon risotto with goats cheese at Redesdale Pub. Life's pretty good.

Next??


Great place to stay - motel with a garden view. 

A totem pole made from skis! Cute. 

Road up Mt Buller

The village! It’s huge and still expanding 

Love the shadow of trees on snow - on the rare occasions I see it! In fact snow is a fascination. 

Roof of the Victorian Alps

Regeneration everywhere- a tiny bud sprouting from a gnarled tree trunk

A very curious currawong. He tip toed around our picnic bag a few times but didn’t pluck up the courage to really look inside 

Willie catkins like pretty pussy tails

Strange but cute little beetle 

A pair of king parrots were very interested in what we were doing. Photographing of course! But I suspect that my red phone cover might have made them more curious - another strange king parrot? I don’t know what their 3D vision is like. Pretty good probably so maybe they were just curious. They kept peering at me hanging out the car window. 

This is the female. She kept her distance but was curious too

Hume and Hovell! This monument on the road through King River Valley took me back to high school history ‘Shaw’ I think it was. I remembered little so it was interesting reading about their explorations anew. 

The monument stands at this cross roads

Mid September - close to the home hearth

After travelling to the other side of the world, I love wandering in our own backyard. Just a month back home and we snuck away for some stolen days camping by peaceful Lake Beaufort complete with camp fire each night.  

It's a lazy place - apart from the occasion group of travellers. This time it was the Fossickers club out to find gold in them thar hills - still loads around it seems. One chap showed us a small piece he'd found so I have now packed my panning dish in the back of the car! Who knows, I might get lucky.  In spite of the occasional small group and the drop-in nomads, it's a tranquil place, just wonderful for chilling out - but best to book just in case! In summer they host the Rainbow Serpent festival and the whole town is packed. 

My father's family lived in the area at some stage in another time. Dad delivered groceries on his bike when he was a young callow fellow - or maybe that was in Ararat. Names like Wotherspoon tease the corner of my memory. There were Gibsons and Wrights in the area back in the day so we visited the war memorial to look for family markers.  Nice reaching back in time in such a gorgeous little place. Must consult the family genealogy gurus. 

And the lake! nothing sensational but in the late afternoon towards twilight there alway seems to be a 'fizz in the gloaming' (ex Bereft by Chris Womersley, a favourite Australian writer). A time of slanted light when it is possible to see those things not usually visible in the harsher flat light earlier in the day - pollen motes in the air, slowly moving columns of whirling tiny insects, glimpses of shimmering floating spiders webs, gum leaves lighting up as the sun shines through oil-speckled veiny surfaces. And the mountains - so close by!

Just love Mount Buangor with glorious wattle dripping over its dirt tracks, tracks  leading who knows where.  Secluded camping grounds among the trees beckon us back - no question we will be back. 

And Wartook yep! you guessed it is a tiny spot you shoot past via the Grampians. The Grampians are a place of romantic childhood and not-so childhood memories.  Easter camps in the cold, the eeery echo of currawongs carolling through the trees on icy mornings, monoliths towering all around.  Pre-Christmas climbing  back in the 80-90s - Venus Baths (which inspired me to attempt writing poetry), Mount Rosea, Wonderland and oh so many glorious places mostly out of reach for me now but .... who knows? keep exercising Heather.


Bbq in the silence - smell of pine cones and frying onions. Doesn’t get much better than that!

My great uncle Will Cochran perished in WWI. 

A memorial in every town - so there should be. So much senseless loss. 

Mt Buangor - a special place to taste the rich Victorian bush. And see some unique aboriginal rock art. 

Giants like these put you in perspective in the natural order of things. 

Everywhere you look nature’s patterns astound. 

Wattkebof every hue from cream to deep orange gold 


The tiny yellow dots are oil glands givingnthe Australian bush its distinct aroma of eucalyptus. The oil was first exported in the early days of European colonisation. 


Get up early and you are treated to beautiful morning mist riding off Lake Beaufort 

This region has a strong aboriginal culture and heritage. Around the lake are images like this telling the stories of the creatures that protect the land.