June 15 Ancient churches
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No this isn't a church I know but I love these little squares. Seems like you could sit all day and just watch the world go by. |
Chapelle Saint Genevieve, also known as Eglise Saint Étienne du Mont, was originally built by King Clovis in C5-6th on top of Mount Leucolitius (now Montagne Saint Geneviève), so he and his wife could be buried by the side of Saint Geneviève, patron saint of Paris. She is said to have saved the city from the Huns. The current church was built in the C15-16th.
I love it for its history and location - Sorbonne area and it is the site of the oldest church on the Left Bank! It’s located behind the grand and famous Pantheon when Paris has buried (or reburied) its greats. People such as Voltaire, Rousseau, Victor Hugo, Émile Zola, Jean Moulin, Louis Braille, Marie Curie.
Across the river in the Marais going on dusk, we found by sheer coincidence the Church of Saint-Gervais-et-Saint Protais - that was back in 1995. We visited it again yesterday. The area is changed somewhat, but the church remains hemmed by buildings as it has been for centuries. The current church was built C16-17th on the site of two earlier churches. The first dated around C7th, the first church on the right bank, was built on a slight hill to protect it from the floods of the Seine. In the last 4-5 centuries 9m floods have been recorded; no records before that.
History has it that the church was attended mostly by boatmen and fishermen, because it was close to the river port at the Place de Grève. The river has played an essential role in the development of Paris - more on that later ....
Since the Middle Ages, an elm tree has been planted in front of the church; it served as a meeting place, and a place where disputes were sometimes settled by judges. There are still trees there today (no pix unfortunately).
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The mighty Pantheon |
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Extravagant decorative everything! |
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Chapelle Saint Geneviève |
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From the Chapelle we wandered down the hill for a hot chocolate on boulevard Saint Germaine |
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Try as I might I simply couldn’t catch a shot through these many doors. I know that behind them are secluded courtyards. Obviously they don’t want rubber necks like us disturbing their privacy- don’t blame them. |
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The rear of the church of St Gervais et St Protais |
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| | If you want to see wonderful art, churches are a good starting point. |
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I didn’t see the organ but the organists of the church included Louis Couperin and his nephew François Couperin, two of the most celebrated composers and musicians of the Baroque period; the organ is still there (Wikipedia). It’s rather lovely. |
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