July 25 - August 17 V Rocks, moss and lichen

Glaciers have grown and receded throughout time, they are a living thing.  When they and ice caps recede, however, all that is left is bare rock; there is no soil available for plant growth. Lichens and some mosses however can cling to bare rock and thrive. Slowly they break down the surface of the rock and promote weathering. As the rock slowly breaks down, fine grains mix with the lichen and moss to form soil. So the plant cycle begins but this all happens very slowly over many decades.  

Lichens and moss seemed to dominate the tundra, at least in many of the areas we visited. It's wonderful walking on the tundra, it's akin to walking on peat, heathland. At this time of year when the surface layer of the permafrost melts, it’s like a mossy bog liberally scattered with rocks and in some places bones - reindeer, birds, whales, and midden-like areas piled with shells. And on the periphery, but not out of sight, our armed guides act as reminders that we are in polar bear country. 

Lichen on rocks big and small and trailing down cliff faces.

The colours and patterns are stunning



The process of soil formation as the tiny lichens creep into crevasses and bit by bit break down huge rocks.  A bit like the ant and the rubber tree song!

Amazing (that’s the tip of my walking stick for scale)

Fungi of many shapes and colours were hidden in moss, grass and cracks










Sodden tundra - quite glorious.

Much of the ground of the Arctic shows patterns of polygons that are the result of freezing and thawing. During the winter the ground freezes solid so that many cracks form in the ground. During the summer, the water from the thaw drain into those cracks. The next winter the freezing water expands widening the crack. As so it goes on with some ‘trenches’ growing to be 1-2m across.

Masses of discarded shells

Reindeer skull. You can see the antler attachments zones at the ends of the v shaped squiggly line (suture) of the skull)

The remains of a hoof probably reindeer. Someone’s meal!

Seeing the finger-like bones, I figured this was the flipper of a seal. Must have been a bear that dragged this here to eat.
This day after watching walrus we dilly-dallied on the hills and tundra looking at bones and flowers and when we got back to our landing spot all of the zodiacs were high and dry - the tide had gone out .... sacre bleu! So it was all hands to the boat lines in a launching drag and shuffle. Hard in gum boots a size or two too big, I nearly went under the boat - I shifted my spot on the line after that!