December Tanna Island: the heart, the people

During our stay on Tanna Island we were fortunate to be able to visit a number of villages and tribes and found that everywhere we went, we were welcomed very warmly. The Entani tribe, who protect Mt Yasur, gave us entree to their sacred mountain and accompanied us to ensure our safety. Then if that wasn't enough of a feast for our eyes and spirits, they treated us to a delicious feast afterwards.  From our accommodation at Friendly Beach we were able to just walk up the road to visit the local village (I think they offer homestays there). Again the very young children were a little wary of us but taking their pictures and then showing them as well as showing photos of our great-grandson put them at ease. Kids relate to kids!

Such gorgeous kids

From the gentle people of the Entani tribe a day or so later, we made a fascinating, albeit a little startling, visit to a tribe not long separated from their cannibalistic past. It was beautifully staged. We walked through the massive tangled 'roots' of an old Banyan tree and were greeted by screaming 'terrifying' tribespeople acting out their cannibalistic warrior past.  Brandishing their clubs and spears they took us to their village! Here Lindsay met with the chief’s son and was given wise advice on his responsibilities as a man. He showed us, well actually Lindsay (it’s a patriarchal society) how they ‘predicted’ the weather, enforced laws like arranged marriages, how they healed their sick - the Kastom way.  But you will have to ask Lindsay what he learned because it was strictly men's business! Cannibalism is a thing of the past here (we hoped!) but in the past, places with impoverished soil and perhaps a shortage of protein such as this, it was perhaps a sensible form of nourishment!  It is was well documented practiced in various forms and contexts across the world.

The Banyan trees are sacred on Tanna. Sadly this huge tree was damaged during Cyclone Pam

With such a dramatic introduction, of course we had to line up for a photo with their clubs and spears

The past is not so distant! One day we were taken to see a Stone Age manmade cave and an ancient footprint embedded in the lava. Once protected from outsiders’ eyes, the local villages that are the custodians of the treasures of Tanna Island, are sharing some of their ancient heritage - and very proudly. 

On our final day on Tanna Island we visited the village of the Yakel tribe. This was the village setting for the movie 'Tanna' made in 2015: a movie about an ancient culture and its customs. We met some of the people who had featured in the movie which was a bit of a thrill. Yakel is one of the villages thst follow traditional kastoms and where modern inventions are restricted - although we saw a couple of small solar panels installed to charge phones no doubt. Most of the villagers wear traditional clothes: grass skirts for the girls and grass-woven penis-sheaths for the men and older boys. These warm and gentle people gave us a small window into traditional village life. Each family has its own compound with structures for sleeping, eating and housing animals - small pigs wandered everywhere. The structures are fairly rudimentary but obviously very functional. One we saw was the family compound which had featured in the Tanna movie - ‘Wawa’s family.  And we met Wawa's mother and grandfather and Selin her sister who had all featured in the movie.  It was a delightful visit and again we were welcomed with dance and song and finsihed with a wee market where all the women laid out their trinkets to show us. I bought a beautifully polished shell from one of the beautiful young women. 

A typical village home 

One of my favouites! The kids were intrigued watching Lindsay change the batteries in his hearing aids. A first for them!

The kids were just gorgeous and loved having their pictures taken and being able to see themselves on the screen

Evereything that grows is eaten. Quite delicious because they know how to prepare it

On our way to the airport on our last day on Tanna, we wandered around a small market in Lénakel where a colourful and intriguing selection of fresh fruit and vegetables was on offer. We got lots of curious stares as tourism was pretty slim at the time, and those who come to Tanna go to the main tourist spots.

 

Then it was back to Port Villa where we were greeted with air conditioniing!  A return to a world we were accustomed to - but what an amazing visit we had enjoyed. From the day we arrived until leaving the island not only had we gazed into the fiery maw of a very volatile volcano, we experienced a series of shocks from an earthquake and small tsunamis, were allowed to meet local villagers and experience some of their kastoms.  Despite the tumultuous Mt Yasur, I found it a place for stillness and solitude, a place to return to fundamentals.  There is a simplicity of life and the warmth and humour in the people making this place an idyllic place. It gave me pause for thought at what treasures we are missing out on by not knowing and understanding more about our Australian indigens. One can always hope! 

Thanks as always to our marvellous travel manager, Bev Edwards, who makes everything go so smoothly.

WHAT COMES NEXT?

The images painted so far are Heather's impressions of our escape to the island paradise of Vanuatu. For a somewhat different slant, we include Vanuatu as told by Lindsay. Not so different but we each have a different focus and see the world through different lens. Please read on ......