Saturday, 26 May 2018

May 26 Sacred places full of glitter and colour

Acres of tiled courtyards which could hold a couple of million people

The Holy Shrine of Imam Reza is a city within a city and covers a huge area; non-Muslims are allowed in the outside areas and some buildings. And of course women must wear a chador and didn’t I look fetching in my mauve-print number. Underneath I’m wearing all my clothes including long sleeved shirt and head scarf. It was excessively warm!  The women who helped we struggle into my garb were lovely and we all giggled a lot at my clumsiness. I have a chuckle when I see poking out below many of those modest usually black cloaks of invisibility, flashy shoes, maybe green patent leather platform soles with studs, and a glimpse of eyelash extensions fringing head scarves. Hmmmm!  I stood out in my chinz curtain.

Lindsay, our guide and the Shrine guide waiting for me to 'cover up'.

.Charming! In case you’re wondering I didn’t buy one.
Some people were praying outside while others remove their shoes before entering to pray

We weren’t allowed into the holy places except for one which we were allowed to walk through. It was underground and was dazzling with gold and mirrored walls, columns and ceiling, We had arrived at one of the appointed prayer times and it was a moving and rather humbling experience watching and listening to what seemed like a sea of people murmuring en mass. The women were at the back a blanket of black - it was quite touching. I felt a certain connection with the women; it came through their looks and smile as I passed them - ah, the sisterhood! They have it rather tough here.  

The entrance to the underground mosque

Within the complex of the Haram (which comprises a series of sacred precincts), we wondered through quite dazzling courtyards many still being built and covered in brilliantly coloured ceramic tiles. We also visited a couple of the museums housed within the complex - the multi level carpet museum was glorious with rich carpets dated back to antiquity. We were also taken to a gallery which housed a collection of precious gifts mainly from other countries. Overwhelmingly opulent!

The tree of life - one of my favourites


An ancient spinning machine

A doorway carpet 


Light bounced off every surface - quite dazzling


It had been an almost overwhelming so, knowing that we were also interested in the countryside, our gentle guide took on relaxing drive out into the countryside through hill villages ending up with a panoramic view over the valley that cradles Mashhad.  What an amazing place! The next day we were to board a train for Isfahan for more eye-opening experiences.  

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