Thursday 31 May 2018

May 26 Sacred places full of glitter and colour


Lindsay, our guide and the Shrine guide waiting for me to cover up. 

In case you’re wondering I didn’t buy one! Underneath I’m wearing all my clothes including long sleeved shirt and head scarf. It was rather warm!  

The women who helped we struggle into my garb were lovelynand we all giggled a lot at my clumsiness. 

The Holy Shrine of Imam Reza is a city within a city and covers a huge area; non-Moslem are allowed in the outside areas and some buildings. Women must wear a chador and didn’t I look fetching in my mauve print number. [Next time you complain about ‘hat hair’ think veil/headscarf hair!]. I have a chuckle when I see poking out below many of those modest black cloaks of invisibility, flashy shoes, maybe green patent leather platform soles with studs, and a glimpse of eyelash extensions fringing head scarves. Hmmmm! 


Acres of tiled courtyards which could hold a couple of million people. 

We weren’t allowed into the holy places. Here people are removing their shoes before entering to pray. 


However....... Within the complex of the Haram - a series of sacred precincts, we wondered through quite dazzling courtyards many still being built and covered in brilliantly coloured ceramic tiles. We also visited a couple of the museums housed within the complex - the carpet museum which was quite impressive and the collection of precious  gifts mainly from other countries. Overwhelmingly opulent!


The glitter in here was dazzling. It is the entrance to a huge mosque which we were allowed to walk through. It was pray time and I felt like I was imposing on precious time. The atmosphere was electrifying, overwhelming and humbling. 

There are many museums within the Shrine complex. We visited the multi level carpet museum and ogled at rich carpets dated back into antiquity. 


Lastly we walked through an underground area, glittering with gold and mirrored walls, columns and ceiling, in which people were praying. We had arrived at one of the appointed prayer times and it was a moving experience watching and listening to what seemed like a sea of people murmuring en mass; the women at the back a blanket of black quite touching. I feel a certain connection with the women; it comes through their looks and smile as I pass - ah, the sisterhood! They have it rather tough here. 


Our gentle guide took us through hill villages to give us a panoramic view over the valley that cradles Mashhad. 

Our day ended with a relaxing drive out into the countryside. The next day we were to board a train for Isfahan. 


[To see my pix of this please go to www.flickr.com/photos/hwheat8pix/  and go to Albums and find ‘Holy Shrine’. 

Or go to Facebook.com/heather.wheat.925 ]

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