May 19 continued .... Afrosiab an ancient Tell to an exotic past

Life in this ancient place, ancient Samarkand, ended seven centuries ago but has attracted many teams of archaeologists intent on exploring the 11 different cultural layers of its occupation over time. By whatever make, Afrosiab, Samarkand or Marakanda to the Greeks (Alexander the Great visited here), this was the centre of trade along the international trade routes, a centre of influence and wealth. Emissaries and diplomats from many countries including the Vatican visited here. We saw large fragments of wall murals depicting such visits.

Amir Timur brought the remains of, and built a mausoleum for, the Old Testament prophet Daniel out of deep respect for the man. And we came here to see that.

Looking to Daniel’s mausoleum which is on the edge of the old Afrosiab. We had to wash (wash house in the foreground) before entering. The place engendered a strong feeling of reverence. G

This doorway was quite intriguing. I don’t recall where this led to but the doors are the original. Would have been marvellous to go and see!

This pistachio tree is over 600 year old. Legend says that it started to bear fruit when Daniel’s remains were brought here.

This narrow pathway led to other parts of the archeological excavation. Lindsay walked up the hill but I couldn’t ascend another slope by that time - too many steps climbed already. We walked about 9km plus many steps that day. Our guide was reluctant to go there because there were supposed to be snakes, foxes and other ‘scary’ things. Sadly I missed out on seeing what remains of the early C15 observatory built by Ulugh Beg.

The museum attached to the excavations of the Tell was truly worth the visit. We came out brimming with snippets of history, enough to keep us happily mulling over for hours.

We finished our day with a visit to the central markets which were full of enticing smells and colours; we bought a sample of ‘fudge’ and some sesame confection.

A vast sea of vibrant colours and shapes - many things unidentifiable, others familiar. The smells and colours were wonderful!

Near one of the entrances to the markets were gathered the bread vendors. Intoxicating smell! Fascinating to watch - the bread is oiler to a golden sheen.

After a few days of visiting mosques, we felt rather mosqued-out, but like the old churches and cathedrals of Christendom, it is from these structures that the history of a people can often be gleaned. It’s all part of that big jigsaw picture puzzle, this mosaic history that we want to learn more about by travelling this ancient international trading route.

Tomorrow Bukhara and the desert .......