Dugong, green turtles and li-Anthawirriyarra
Apologies up front for the lack of pix but I have been feeling my way here so am a bit wary not to overstep any sensitive boundaries. Apologies also for all the words. Can this woman talk or what! Sorry but it is all so interesting and I really want to share it with you. So. .... I'll get on with it 😁
Every day a new revelation it seems! A couple of days ago we encountered a couple of Yanyuwa (I found out later) people busy on the boat ramp at Mule Creek, which in my book was a pretty much a river but ..... look at Cooper creek! Names and classifications leave me wondering. Anyway this 'creek' is one of a multitude of waterways emptying into the Gulf. I was curious to know what they were doing (I thought they had giant turtles) so I hopped out of the car and asked, respectfully of course - if you don't reach out and make contact, you remain forever apart. They had just caught a couple of dugong and were cleaning/stripping them. Looked gruesome but intriguing. Turns out they were preparing meat for a festival this weekend - Malandarri. They had caught and killed these creatures in the traditional way with a wooden harpoon. No good being squeamish, just that one doesn't see ones meat butchered everyday (it comes sanitised and wrapped). Turtles were also being hunted by the li-Anthawirriyarrs (Sea Rangers). They were after the green turtle, according to their law. We chatted for quite a while - thank goodness they were open to my questions. They ended up inviting us to come to the festival. How could you refuse! So we have stayed on so we can. It starts tonight and then we'll be off on another bit of dirt road. This annual festive is all about celebrating the art and cultural practices of the four main language/clan groups living in the area. There'll be dance, traditional food, school kids doing something, and other cultural activities. Aboriginal groups are expected to be coming from far and wide.
Sounds pretty amazing! Got to go with the flow of this ancient land eh!? I spoke to some aunties yesterday and they told me what they'd be cooking. I also got an invitation to go see them practicing their dance and songs over at the art and cultural centre today. Lovely ladies. They were sitting on a big rug in the shade of some huge trees chomping on kangaroo tail cooked in foil in the fire. Looked pretty ok to me albeit a little ash flecked - but hey they increase the price of cheese if it's rolled in ash, right?
Also we spent some time chatting to a couple of the il-Anthaeirriyarra Sea Rangers at their station. I wanted to know what they do etc etc and hoped to find out if we could get to Barranyi (North Island National Park in the Pellew Island group). Their role is to monitor and protect the waters and islands in this region. Two of the clans are responsible for the sea, rivers and islands (and the other two for the land). In collaboration with a couple govt groups, they care for and monitor the health of the turtles and dugong, the waters and sea grasses etcetc of the Yanyuwa indigenous protected area.
I have had the most marvellous opportunity to learn a little about these people and their ancient cultures and feel very honoured.
Now off to watch the aunties and learn some new steps! Tomorrow hopefully some pix from the festivities tonight.
The showground getting ready to party! |
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