May 31 2016   Zhupanova river and southward 

We have been treated to some really interesting lectures on various local wild life and before we go ashore or on zodiac expeditions we are always well briefed on what to expect - a bit about the history and wild life. This morning in preparation for our southward journey through the Kuril Islands, we had a short lecture from Leonid a longtime resident of one of the Kurils by choice, but Ukrainian by birth.  He is a volcanologist and naturalist and also a passionate historian and champion of the Kuril Island Archipelago. He gave us an introduction to the recent history as well as the aboriginals of the region, the Ainu. He speaks little English so the lecture was in Russian with Katya, assistant expedition leader, interpreting. I have since engaged in halting conversation with Leonid and he is quite delightful, gentle, helpful and caring. One of the passengers, Fujio Mizuoka a Japanese professor of geography, raised a small challenge to some of what Leonid talked about so it was agreed that he would be given an opportunity to give the passengers a different perspective.

Heading up river

After lunch  we piled into the zodiacs and headed ashore for a trip up the Zhupanova river. At the mouth of the river there is a large lagoon on the banks of which is a large fish processing plant - this is a land of fishes and fishers! Unfortunately it wasn't operational so we didn't get a chance to inspect. No matter we just headed on up stream to find some Eagles. It was a grey, watery vista: quiet and beautiful with snow covered peaks as a backdrop, a broad expanse of fast flowing river edged with willows, birches and other trees just starting to throw out pale green buds, and long blonde grass flattened by months under snow.

Watching and counting Aleutian terns

A very gentle peaceful landscape. We spotted Harbour and Largh seals who popped their heads up to check out who was invading their territory, 3 large black and white Stellar eagles on nests and various other birds, and a couple of people also saw Musk rats and marmots. Eventually we had to turn the boats around and head back to the lagoon to meet up with the kayakers and offload two thirds of the people to go tromping through the marsh looking for a special albeit elusive bird. The rest of us headed back to the ship and hot drinks.

Dinner was latish but worth the wait - roast lamb or chicken.  We are served 3 courses each night and we are finding it a bit too much but it is all delicious and the daily menu deliciously varied.

Tomorrow we explore a fiord on the southern end of Kamchatka.