May 29 2016  The Commander Islands

We didn't sleep well our first night on board - everything a bit strange, constant movement, and we were awakened very early by an announcement that a couple of blue whales had been sighted.   We all dashed up to the top deck above the Bridge, the 'monkey deck', but saw nothing except lots of fog. But that set us all on alert for further sightings. We spent a bit of time on deck watching but eventually Lindsay and I, and a lot of others, headed for the Bridge and a little warmth.

That first morning the sea was like satin pewter - so smooth. It became a little more choppy as the day wore on and the fog swept in from the north east only to peter out after a little while. 

I was feeling the effects of our many days of travel plus the unfamiliarity and excitement of being at sea so I had a rest with my book in the afternoon.  I had just drifted off to sleep when another whale call came over the PA system so I rolled off the bunk grabbed my binoculars and headed to the Bridge.  Then we saw them - two fin whales breaching the waves and blowing spouts of water high in the air.  So magnificent, they had us all entranced until they disappeared into the depths not to resurface for a long time.

We saw a number of species of birds throughout the day - albatros, fulmars, gulls, petrols, guillemots, and even the gorgeous puffins, the birds I most wanted to see.

That evening Lindsay faded and had to return to our cabin before he had finished dinner.  He was headachy and feeling seedy. It had all caught up with him, poor thing. But after a night's sleep he was fine.  I reckon we are both adjusting to the constant motion. It can be a bit unsettling, so I've been chewing ginger 'lollies', drinking lemon and ginger tea and have taken some ginger tablets - just in case.

Landing on Bering Island

 This morning we arrived at Bering Island, the largest in the Commander Archipelago which extends east to join the Aleutian Islands.  We were dragged from slumber at 6am for breakfast as we were heading off early for the island in the Zodiacs - a whole new experience for us.  We had a briefing before we left about what to do and what not to do and were then sent off to don layers of warm clothes, wet weather gear, gum boots, life jackets and line up at the gangplank - after washing our boots to remove any nasty exotics which might threaten native flora or fauna.  We looked hilarious bundled up to the eye brows and looking twice our normal size with thermals, parkas, raincoats, scarves etc etc.  Getting down the gangplank in gum boots and then stepping into a bobbing rubber boat was a little nerve wracking to say the least.  But we did it and set off bouncing from wave to wave, through light rain for the 1km ride to the landing which was a 'wet' one i.e., we disembarked in the water, hence the need for gum boots.

Skeleton of a Stellar sea cow - now extinct

Man was it cold! We split up into two groups - the mad birdies, including Lindsay, who planned to walk for about 3 hours in the rain and icy wind and the sensible ones who chose to go to the museum and to visit a local eccentric artist in the village of Nikolskoye. Not surprisingly I chose the latter! But even so we had a long walk in the freezing wind and rain.  Thank goodness for wet weather clothes is all I can say. I wore just my thermals with parka, waterproof pants and raincoat and felt completely warm except for my face which froze. 

It was a very interesting visit and we left there knowing a little more about the discovery,  exploration, history and in fact the very existence of what was for me an unknown part of the world.  (As I write this I have to brace myself on the chair and keep track of the iPad on the little desk top as the ship tosses and rolls in a swell of 3 meters.  It's hard work).

Back on board ship, we warmed up with a delicious lunch of seafood chowder. The afternoon was cold, windy and wet but three zodiacs took off nevertheless with a few stalwarts to cruise around a small island a few ks away. I stayed back and was glad I did as they came back looking rather shell-shocked after braving rough seas and driving rain. Embarking and disembarking in rough seas is fraught with danger as you have to step onto a moving narrow target. In spite of that, only a few people fell into the boats and none went in the water - except for one of the kayakers who went under. No harm was done.  The kayakers are all Aussies and in their 60s - they are inspiring. 

In the evenings the bar opens about 6.30 and people gather to have a drink and chat before dinner. It's a great time and very informal.  Well actually the whole thing is informal apart from having to observe the safety rules of the ship, landings and boarding etc. Throughout the day, calls goes out that a particular bird or cetacean has been spotted and people appear out of cabins hastily donning coats and hats with binoculars in hand to dash outside or climb to the Bridge for a better look. Everything stops for a special sighting, meals are delayed if it means we get to hop into the zodiac and head for shore. For example, as I write this 3 June, it is 6.40pm and we are waiting to see if the zodiacs will be launched for a trip ashore at Matur Island in the Kuril Archipelago and the kayakers are also waiting to see if it is safe for them to attempt a paddle.  I won't be going as it is too rough for my liking - we will see soon enough, but dinner could be late!  A report on that later ..........