May 31 Zhupanova River and southward

We have been treated to some really interesting lectures on various local wildlife and before we go ashore or on zodiac expeditions we are always well-briefed on what to expect - a bit about the history and wildlife. This morning in preparation for our southward journey through the Kuril Islands, we had a short lecture from Leonid a longtime resident of one of the Kurils by choice, but Ukrainian by birth.  He is a volcanologist and naturalist and also a passionate historian and champion of the Kuril Island Archipelago. He gave us an introduction to the recent history as well as the aboriginals of the region - the Ainu. He speaks little English so the lecture was in Russian with Katya, assistant expedition leader, interpreting. I have since engaged in halting conversation with Leonid and he is quite delightful, gentle, helpful and caring. One of the passengers, Fujio Mizuoka a Japanese professor of geography, raised a small challenge to some of what Leonid talked about so it was agreed that he would be given an opportunity to give the passengers a different (non-Russian Japanese} perspective .

Heading up-river

After lunch  we piled into the zodiacs and headed ashore for a trip up the Zhupanova River. At the mouth of the river there is a large lagoon on the banks of which is a large fish processing plant - this is a land of fishes and fishers! Unfortunately it wasn't operational so we didn't get a chance to inspect. No matter we just headed on upstream to find some Sea eagles. It was a grey, watery vista: quiet and beautiful with snow-covered peaks as a backdrop, a broad expanse of fast flowing river edged with willows, birches and other trees just starting to throw out pale green buds, and long blonde grass flattened by months under snow.

Watching and counting Aleutian Terns

A very gentle peaceful landscape. We spotted Harbour and Largh Seals who popped their heads up to check out who was invading their territory, 3 large black and white Stellar Sea-eagles on nests and various other birds, and a couple of people also saw Musk Rats and Marmots. Eventually we had to turn the boats around and head back to the lagoon to meet up with the kayakers and offload two-thirds of the people to go tromping through the marsh looking for a special albeit elusive bird. The rest of us headed back to the ship and hot drinks.

Dinner was latish but worth the wait - roast lamb or chicken.  We are served 3 courses each night and we are finding it a bit too much but it is all delicious and the daily menu quite varied.

Tomorrow we explore a fiord on the southern end of Kamchatka.

May 30 A little piece of paradise - Medny Island

Another early start today - breakfast 6am, briefing 6.45 for a 7.15 departure - in order to maximise our time exploring Medny Island (the other large island in the Commander Islands chain), before sailing back west towards the Kamchatka Peninsula to venture up one of the large east coast rivers.

Scrambling aboard being careful not to slip!

Before I go into detail about this beautiful island, let me tell you about boarding a zodiac. Bear in mind that we are dressed in a few layers of warm clothing, hat, gloves etc finished off with wet weather outer layer - pants and coat plus clumping great gumboots a few sizes too big - all of which hamper movement somewhat. We line up and wait our turn to go down the gangway. Oh and I should mention that 90% of the passengers are over 60. The gangway is a stair-like ladder swaying with the ship and feels like it is held together with rope - it's not of course but it is a wobbly affair.  We are helped individually into a zodiac by a couple of sailors using a 'sailors' grip to avoid hands slipping. You have to step onto the pontoon of the zodiac first then down into the boat, perch on the pontoon, shuffle down to the back and hang on. We zap across the water like a small flotilla of harlequin beetles - black upturned carapaces dotted with bright spots of colour - there are usually 5 boats that head out. The first time was a bit nerve-racking but the ride has become quite exhilarating (depending which driver you get). 

Landing at a totally deserted beach on a deserted island - heavenly

We landed at Preobrazhenskaya Bay which had been a settlement established by Russians for the collection of seal, sea lion and sea otter pelts. That was a dark period of history but the settlement was abandoned, I don't recall when, and the remnants of the settlement left to rot. 

A large group went off birdwatching, a few intrepid trekkers walked up snow-covered mountains, over headlands, cliffs and rocks and I explored plant life and rocks. I found masses of beautiful green rocks which I reckoned contained copper which makes sense - I found out later that the name Medny means copper. They had attempted to mine it at one stage but it was too hard to extract. It was quite fascinating for me discovering strange plants including cow parsley which the bears eat. It grows about 3 feet high and when it dries, it leaves a stiff hollow stalk which the aboriginal people used to stuff with salmon roe and then dry and smoke it over the fire. They would then take these nutritious snacks with them when they went hunting or travelling.  I saw an Arctic Fox also known as a Blue Fox because of the bluish tinge to its summer brown coat - their winter coat is pale golden. They are about the size of a kelpie.

After our wander, we piled back into the zodiacs to explore the cost line.

Bird-snow decorated cliffs

Medny is stunningly beautiful! Towering moss-covered cliffs some with grass mats on top like strange looking wigs, caves and tiny hollows where seabirds nest. The sea was fairly calm as we glided through kelp forests that hugged the cliffs and provide a safe haven for sea otters. Our little flotilla had an audience - curious sea otters kept popping their heads up in ones and twos, mums with their young on their bellies, to check us out. Adorable! They float on their backs while not diving.  Sea urchins are their food of choice but they also eat clams and other crustaceans which they gather lots of then tuck them into skin flaps under their arms before surfacing to eat floating on their backs often using rocks and shells to crack open their food, clever things. 

Hugging rugged coastal cliffs - thrilling!

We cruised slowly around rocky headlands, passed beaches littered with debris (mainly large logs), maneuvered between rocking outcrops 'iced' with 'bird snow' and poked into the entrances of large sea caverns. I spotted  a few pairs of Horned Puffins - they are soooo cute! They perch and nest on the tiniest rock ledges and their babies learn to fly by basically falling off. I was very happy and there was so much more yet to come - what a magic holiday!

We rode back to the ship in dense fog which had started to descend around noon. An absolutely perfect morning.  The afternoon we set course for the Zhupanova River on the east coast of Kamchatka to search for ginormous Stellar sea eagles.

May 29 The Commander Islands

We didn't sleep well our first night on board - everything was a bit strange, constant movement, and we were awakened very early by an announcement that a couple of Blue Whales had been sighted.   We all dashed up to the top deck above the Bridge, the 'monkey deck', but saw nothing except lots of fog. But that set us all on alert for further sightings. We spent a bit of time on deck watching but eventually Lindsay and I, and a lot of others, headed for the Bridge and a little warmth.

That first morning the sea was like satin pewter - so smooth. It became a little more choppy as the day wore on and the fog swept in from the northeast only to peter out after a little while. 

I was feeling the effects of our many days of travel plus the unfamiliarity and excitement of being at sea so I had a rest with my book in the afternoon.  I had just drifted off to sleep when another whale call came over the PA system so I rolled off the bunk grabbed my binoculars and headed to the Bridge.  Then we saw them - two Fin Whales breaching the waves and blowing spouts of water high in the air.  So magnificent, they had us all entranced until they disappeared into the depths not to resurface for a long time.

We saw a number of species of birds throughout the day - albatross, fulmars, gulls, petrels, guillemots, and even the gorgeous puffins (the birds I most wanted to see).

That evening Lindsay faded and had to return to our cabin before he had finished dinner.  He was headachy and feeling seedy. It had all caught up with him, poor thing. But after a night's sleep he was fine.  I reckon we are both adjusting to the constant motion. It can be a bit unsettling, so I've been chewing ginger 'lollies', drinking lemon and ginger tea and have taken some ginger tablets - just in case.

Landing on Bering Island

This morning we arrived at Bering Island, the largest in the Commander Archipelago which extends east to join the Aleutian Islands.  We were dragged from slumber at 6am for breakfast as we were heading off early for the Island in the zodiacs - a whole new experience for us.  We had a briefing before we left about what to do and what not to do and were then sent off to don layers of warm clothes, wet weather gear, gum boots, and life jackets and to then line up at the gangplank. Before we boarded we had to wash our boots to remove any nasty exotics which might threaten native flora or fauna.  We looked hilarious bundled up to the eyebrows and looking twice our normal size with thermals, parkas, raincoats, scarves etc etc.  Getting down the gangplank in gumboots and then stepping into a bobbing rubber boat was a little nerve-wracking to say the least.  But we managed it and set off bouncing from wave to wave, through light rain for the 1km ride to the landing which was a 'wet' one i.e., we disembarked in the water, hence the need for gumboots.

Skeleton of a Stellar's sea cow - now extinct

Man was it cold! We split up into two groups - the mad birdies, including Lindsay, who planned to walk for about 3 hours in the rain and icy wind and the sensible ones who chose to go to the museum and visit a local eccentric artist in the village of Nikolskoye. Not surprisingly I chose the latter! But even so we had a long walk in the freezing wind and rain.  Thank goodness for wet weather clothes is all I can say. I wore just my thermals with a parka, waterproof pants and raincoat and felt completely warm except for my face which froze. 

It was a very interesting visit and we left there knowing a little more about the discovery, exploration, history and in fact the very existence of what was for me an unknown part of the world.  (As I write this I have to brace myself on the chair and keep track of the iPad on the little desk top as the ship tosses and rolls in a swell of 3 metres.  It's hard work).

Back on board ship, we warmed up with a delicious lunch of seafood chowder. The afternoon was cold, windy and wet but nevertheless three zodiacs took off with a few stalwarts to cruise around a small island a few kms away. I stayed back and was glad I did as they came back looking rather shell-shocked after braving rough seas and driving rain. Embarking and disembarking in rough seas is fraught with danger as you have to step onto a moving narrow target. In spite of that, only a few people fell into the boats and none went in the water - except for one of the kayakers who went under. No harm was done.  The kayakers are all Aussies and in their 60s - they are inspiring. 

In the evenings the bar opens about 6.30 and people gather to have a drink and chat before dinner. It is all very informal.  Well actually the whole thing is informal apart from having to observe the safety rules of the ship, landings and boarding etc. Throughout the day, calls go out that a particular bird or cetacean has been spotted and people appear out of cabins hastily donning coats and hats with binoculars in hand to dash outside or climb to the Bridge for a better look. Everything stops for a special sighting and meals are delayed if it means we get to hop into the zodiac and head for shore. For example, as I write this 3 June, it is 6.40pm and we are waiting to see if the zodiacs will be launched for a trip ashore at Matur Island in the Kuril Archipelago and the kayakers are also waiting to see if it is safe for them to attempt a paddle.  I won't be going as it is too rough for my liking - we will see soon enough, but dinner could be late!  A report on that later ..........

May 2016 Life on an expedition ship

Our final day in PK was one spent waiting.  Luggage pick-up at 12 noon, bus pick up 3.30 for a 6pm departure which as it turned out was delayed until 9.30pm due to a technicality. So our first dinner on board was while we were still tied up in Kamchatka. Speaking of food - it is excellent and plentiful - breakfasts comprise all manner of cereals including porridge, fresh fruit from as far away as Ecuador, sweet pastries, eggs, bacon, sausages and beans (they have two New Zealand cooks on board). Lunch - 1st day out lasagna, today seafood chowder, plus fruit and pastries. Dinner we get to choose between two alternatives; dinner is always 3 courses - man oh man!  Just think of the waistline but we walk miles each day - up and down stairs between decks and my arms and shoulders ache from hauling myself up and bracing myself going down - the stairs are very steep and the outside ladders are rather treacherous particularly when wet which is most of the time. Lectures and briefings take place on deck 2 (2-3 per day), all meals are on deck 3,  our cabin is deck 4 as is the library and bar, and we climb to and from decks 5 and 6 watching for birds, whales etc etc. It's an open bridge which means we are allowed to go in and enjoy watching the sea, birds and sea-mammals out of the weather which is wonderful when you have days like today with 20-knots winds blowing straight from the Arctic and temperature below 5 degrees C, not to mention rain.

Our ship the Professor Khomrov-Spirit of Enderby

The 47 passengers are a mixed lot - 4 from Russia, a few from Great Britain, some from Sweden, Denmark, Belgium, one from Japan, some from Canada and the US, and the rest from Australia. The company we are traveling with, Heritage Expeditions, is NZ-based and there are a few staff from there including the expedition leader, but there is also an Aussie kayak leader. The cruise director is from the US, a couple of the guides are Brits, a couple are Russian, and I think the crew is all Russian.  It is a small Russian ship named Professor Khromov and was formerly an science expedition ship set up to study meteorology and hydrology, max 50 passengers and 22 crew. The cruise company charters it and a sister ship from the Russians.

The staff include expert guides - 2 bird experts one of which is also a photography guru, a marine biologist whose specialty is the sea otters of the area and orcas from the Ross Sea (she is now enrolled to do a PhD in Qld Uni studying Bottle-nosed Porpoises), a Russian volcanologist, naturalist and historian from the Kuril Islands, and the cruise director is an environmentalist and naturalist. And because this is a wildlife expedition there are many amateur experts and passionate birders including a retired professor of geography from Japan (whose English is not brilliant but way way better than my Japanese). So there is always someone to turn to with questions (and I always have loads!) and to top it off there is a lecture program - we've had a couple of great ones already.

All togged up waiting to board a zodiac

Temperature and weather wise - it has been very cold maybe 4 C during the day and there has been quite a bit of fog and some rain, but we are toasty-warm inside.  The cabins and the rest of the ship are well heated. Outside we rug up with thermals, thick sox, parkas, hats, gloves and scarves and feel perfectly OK. Our cabin is absolutely fine - two lower bunks, a small bathroom, oodles of storage space, a writing desk and a porthole to peer through.

What have we done so far?  Stay tuned ........

May 26 Kamchatka - World heritage land of ice and fire

Kamchatka Peninsula

Kamchatka Peninsula is a precious place and with its volcanoes is listed as a World Heritage site. It is a fairly isolated and remote krai (a geographic administrative division) of the Russian Federation and often its people feel that it is forgotten particularly when it comes to resources and the like.  Health care is free but residents have to wait months for an appointment for routine medical matters. There are a couple of private clinics but most people fly to Korea, Singapore or perhaps Moscow 10,000 km away for more major surgical/treatment.  There is an increasing incident of cancer in young people but few resources to mount a serious health campaign. 

Wages are low but the cost of fuel, in this fuel-producing country, is comparatively high. For instance a fully qualified doctor earns ~$600 per month yet fuel is about 80 cents a litre. As with many country regions in Oz, many of the young people in Kamchatka have to leave to find decent career opportunities. 

They can grow vegetables such as cabbage, potato, carrot and beet and some berries, but much of the food is imported especially fruit. Meat and milk are imported either from mainland Russia or SE Asia. Fish however is plentiful and we could eat smoked salmon 3 meals a day!  You'd be crazy to complain about that but it makes one aware, yet again, of how luck we are in Oz with plenty of everything. 

Cropping near Yelizova not far northwest of PK

In the days of farm collectives, wheat and buckwheat were grown here but are no longer. Many people have a summer house - dachas - which may be quite close to their usual place of residence (apartments in town). There they can grow their own vegetables plus some exotics such as tomatoes under glass. We saw many glasshouses as we flew back to base last night as well as fields awaiting planting once the ground thaws a bit. Central heating and hot water is piped to all building from volcanic thermal sources. It is turned on in September-October and turned off April-May.  So homes are as warm as toast. 

Because of its location beside the Kamchatka-Kuril trench (which is around 10 km deep), this is a place of efrequent earthquakes. I was told that tremors occur almost daily but most are too small to notice. Nevertheless all the streets and pavements and structures are cracked  As a  result of decades of earthquake damage, old housing is gradually being replaced with structures which will withstand earthquakes of a higher magnitude.

I have to say I am missing Google and our easy access to the Internet - it is available but we don't have affordable access. I have a travel SIM but that is limited. Oh well - but next time (Note to self -  I will buy a local SIM on arrival). In the meantime, while we are staying here (and I hope at every hotel we stay in), we have free Wi-Fi albeit intermittent, and for that I am very grateful.
Tomorrow we head out to sea and will have no internet for a couple of weeks until we dock at Yuzhno-Sakhalin.  Bon voyage .....

No this is not our ship but about the same size!

May 25 Bucket list day!

We were loaded into a 4-seater helicopter and are about to lift off

Me and Lindsay flying high and loving it!

Wednesday 25 will remain a very special and memorable day for us - a day of firsts and realised dreams. Volcanoes, helicopter rides and bears. After a slightly anxious morning waiting to hear if we could make it over the peninsula's volcanoes and into the Valley of Geysers - the entrance to the valley is narrow so winds are a problem and is fog - we lifted off at 1pm! 

Flying in to the Valley of Geysers via a snow-encrusted corridor

We munched on statistics and exotic-sounding names most of the day but only remember a few - our guide Elaini was very knowledgeable about Kamchatka and very passionate about her home. She is a lecturer in tourism at the Kamchatka University and has traveled extensively often on specialised assignments with people such as wildlife photographer Mark Brazil (Birds of East Asia).  

Our helicopter was a 4-seater and was very 'cosy' but it afforded us almost panoramic views. Our pilot, Alexi ,was very skilled so we felt safe the entire time. The winds were a bit blustery so the ride was a little bumpy as our little bubble of 'glass' and metal was tossed about, but that made it feel so much more real and exciting. We communicated through headphone speakers because the noise level is really high - the rotor is only feet above your head after all! Lindsay bravely sat in the front with all that nothingness under him. What a star! but it was his 70th birthday present, albeit 2-odd years late, so he got to be in the birthday seat!

Ash-coated snow

I felt that I could almostb reach out and touch this magnificent volcano

We flew through valleys and alongside towering, and not so towering, volcanoes - hard to believe that we were right there so close to the rugged crags of live volcanoes.  There are a few hundred on the Kamchatka Peninsula but at the moment only about 30 are active ... wow! We saw a couple like sleeping dragons breathing out plumes of gas/smoke/steam and one which, although not active yesterday, is perpetually black and 'smooth' because it constantly spews out black ash.  The snow for miles around is grey - truly mind-boggling .  We saw footprints of bears weaving bizarre trsils in the snowy slopes and we were told that a mother and a couple of cubs were found wandering inside the rim of one crater - keeping warm no doubt.  So evidently the bears do venture up pretty high, but normally concentrate around the many rivers during the salmon season gorging themselves on salmon until around October when they seem to only eat the roe - they stand on the fish and squirt the eggs into their mouths, clever things. They also eat the fishes' brains - all high fat and protein food to last them through winter. The rest of the time they live on cedar nuts, berries and meadowsweet (or some herbaceous plants like that).

We were surrounded by volcanoes - what an awesome spectacle! We learnt about the different types of volcanoes on Kamchatka and in fact saw all 5 so we felt very lucky. The destination of our flight, the Valley of Geysers 200Km from PK, was discovered by a woman geologist back in 1941. 

The helipad for the Valley of Geysers - from there you walk

Valley of Geysers - you had to be there

The valley is quite beautiful - green and lush with a river barreling through it, the valley walls variously coloured with smears of sulphur and other minerals deposited by the many geysers and springs that dot the flooe and walls of the entire valley. Then further up the slope there are pools of blue water, gorgeous to look at but quite toxic, mud pools of various sizes plopping away like saucepans of simmering chocolate custard but to be avoided at all costs.

The bears had used the steps before us leaving dried muddy paw prints

The valley walls were like stained=glass windows

Steps! I lost count but Lindsay reckons the walk down into the valley from where we landed was equivalent to the height of a 20-storey building. We descended, walked, then ascended halfway, wandered some more - and then we saw him!  A beautiful brown bear about 20-30 metres away grazing quietly. What an amazing experience! We felt sort of safe as we had a ranger with us to protect us - and the bears. He carried a gun just to scare them off. Incidentally we saw seven bears throughout the day.

Our guide Eliani with Lindsay 

Centre photo is a beautiful brwon bear happily munching on leaves and berries

Fortunately for us Elaini was passionate about the natural world and we looked at tiny violets, dwarf Japanese Cedar, alder trees sprouting their sweet smelling catkins, Dwarf Willow, Stone Birch, wild grasses, ferns and curious herbage that grows only in the hot acidic waters and mud of volcanic regions. A botanist's dream place. I could write a book on the whole wonderful day, but maybe later.  On the way back, we stopped in another valley where there are hot springs.  Unsurprisingly, there are hot springs all over the place but this string of pools has been made accessible and a lodge built for people to visit the area. It was very rustic but totally delightful.  We floated in silence in the warm sepia-coloured water watching the sky fade and the snow take on the faintest blush of pink. By this time it was about 8pm - and mozzies about the size of our helicopter were starting to dine on us! So we clambered out of the pool and climbed back into the chopper to head home for a very late supper and then to fall into bed completely exhausted but feeling totally replete. And this is just the start of our Russian odyssey! Next .........

National Park - just us and the view!

May 24 Kamchatka. We have arrived!

Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky is ringed by volcanoes

After almost three years, the long-awaited helicopter flight over Kamchatka's volcanoes is just one sleep away IF the weather behaves. All we can do is wait and hope. In the meantime we are being semi-immersed in Russian hospitality. We had the real deal Russian borscht (which actually originated in Ukraine) for lunch - with Spanish wine .... oh dear never let it be said we are not global in our tastes. Our hotel is basic early-1950s but is adequate and the staff are very patient with us helpless, monolingual English-speaking visitors. I practice saying the simplest of words of greeting and gratitude and am pretty tongue tied, but I have found a practice buddy. The doorman is trying to learn English so we set about having a bizarre 'conversation' via our respective phrase books (the same one the kids and I used back in the 80s!). I have to practice a few words before going down to dinner tonight. After I get some washing done! Our clothes could walk to the bathroom on their own - our journey to date has been a bit warm and we've done a bit of walking too. That topped off with 'sleeping' in the same things a few nights.

The two delightful Alexs who fed and looked out for us

Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky (PK) is a frontier town of 250,000 people. A fair bit of building going on but it is struggling economically and it really shows. The township we haven't explored as yet but the surrounding countryside is wonderful. Snow-capped mountains ring the town overlooked by a few towering volcanoes looming monstrous on the horizon and in the foreground, white-barked Birch trees are just starting to show some green. It looks a bit like an Ansell Adam's dramatic black-and-white photo albeit with smudges of pale green here and there.

A room with a view! Koryaksky volcano (L) towers over PK

It is 2 degrees outside at the moment but we are toasty. What a contrast to the last couple of days sweltering in 30 degree humidity in HK. It will be a holiday of contrasts - and that's precisely how we like it. From the humidity of Honk Kong we were about to fly over snow-encrusted volcanies to the Valley of Geysers where the geothermal heat keeps the valley free of snow year-round. 

St Peter and St Paul

Everywhere in Russia and former Soviet countries massive statues of Lenin tower of town squares

Prior to lift off for the Valley of Geysers, we were treated to a tour of Petropavlovsk (PK) which gets its name from its two patron saints - St Peter and St Paul. The origin of the name Kamchatka is not so clear. Some say it was named by the early exploring Cossacks because the mountains looked like folds of rich brightly-coloured velvet (when in their autumn colours). Others say it is based on an aboriginal word the meaning of which I don't recall exactly, but something like 'people from this place'. Regardless it is a quite special part of the world. It is the eastern defence-line of Russia both nationally and politically, but it is geographically astonishing and stunningly beautiful. It attracts the world's top volcanologists, biologists and geologists as well as snow-sport enthusiasts, serious hikers, whitewater rafters, birdwatchers and and and .....  The provence attracts 40-50,000 tourists each year half of whom are Russian. 

More anon, do svidaniya 

May 2016 and so our odyssey begins

Our proposed journey

This was to be our first overseas journey together not related to work commitments such as conferences and we have seven weeks of freedom to wander - it seems like such a luxury. [And this is my first travel blog - from 2016 to 2025 blogging has been a continual learning experience.]  But where are we going? From Far East Russia - the Kamchatka Peninsula with its hundreds of volancos, to the Russian North Pacific islands, and from there to travel from Vladivostock to Moscow on the Trans-Siberian Railway. Assuming we can manage to get out of  Russia before our Visas expire, we will fly to the Caucasus and spend a coiple of weeks in the ancient Christian states of Armenian and Georgia. It won't be nearly long enough but it will serve as a tantilising entree to future world travels. 

A red-line journey of discovery

So back on the ground .......

After what seemed like an eternity of hurtling through the skies hermetically sealed into a large tin can with crying children, snoring and snorting adults, and beautiful attendants trying to soothe us all with smiles, drinks and food  - we arived in Hong Kong. Ah, the tyranny of distance. Having battled through two major travel hubs we spilled into the early season humidity of Hong Kong. My recollectins and experience of Hong Kong date back to 1984 but now! - an explosion of development met us. Massive spans of bridges stretch precariously over who knows which stretches of water in which this amazing metropolis nestles, acres of shipping containers, shimmering towers of steel and glass which would dwarf Melbourne's cluster of inner-city 'high risers'. The sights had us gaping.

'Bling Street' - right off Nathan Road

Scafolding was towering exoskeletons of bamboo lashed together with fat cable ties

Towering exoskeletons of bamboo lashed together with fat cable ties, clung tightly to their host buildings and projected out over busy streets, endless streams of people, noise - and smells that conjure memories of overripe tropical fruit - and other 'organic' matter! Nathan Road. We have arrived in Hong Kong.

Bamboo and cable ties - how strong is plastic?

Once a British colony there is little left of that regime. Yet the 'west' is everywhere - well perhaps not everywhere but billboards feature very Anglo Orientals and brand names which seem to be global. BUT we did taste a bit of the real HK. Vertical arcades with escalators taking you higher and higher through cupboard-sized shops selling everything from miniature animals and fantasy characters to faux Armani 'this and that'. We plunged into the backstreets, and  cheek-by-jowl street markets selling every imaginable thing but especially bling for every body part or piece of clothing. Fascinating!  Food? We ended up after many flights of stairs in what looked to us like someone's wedding celebration with all the trimmings to boot. What did we eat ... hmmm! Well we opted for safety, given it was a 'point and nod' kind of thing. Suckling pig and yummy lotus root. Wine? After puzzled looks we settled for beer. I think we provided the entertainment for the staff and felt like total curiosities. We left with a renewed and growing empathy for the newcomers to the Land of Oz. What did we pay for? Who knows, it was all written in Chinese ..... but of course!

Waking to aching feet and hips, we face a day which will end with us sleeping in the Vladivostok Airport arrival lounge waiting for our morning flight to Kamchatka from whence our real adventures begins ..........