May 24 Ashgabat - amazing!

Ylym (or Atom) Monument dedicated to scientific discovery

It would take volumes to describe what we saw and learned in our brief visit to Turkmenistan. So, just briefly - me, brief? I’ll try.  From the ancient cities of the Merv complax to Ashgabat, the capital which is almost beyond belief. We did a tour of this quite eye-popping city most of which was rebuilt after it was levelled and the population decimated by an earthquake in 1948. Now rebuilt, it is a city of shimmering white and gold - all the buildings are either built of or clad with white ‘stone’.  It is said that Ashgabat has the highest concentration of white marble buildings. It certainly looked like it! The monuments are stupendous, all shining and sparkling new. This is a modern, new-built city whose currency is natural gas and 'white gold' AKA cotton.  Cotton was introduced by the Soviets into Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan: a practice which almost drained the Aral Sea but which is a valuable crop. 

Turkmenistan gained independence in 1991 and then gained status as a Neutral Country from the UN in 1995. And of course there’s a towering arched Neutrality Monument of white and gold reaching over 100m into the sky and towering against the stunning backdrop of the imposing Kopet Dag Mountains which mark its border with Iran. These mountains were born of tectonic activity eons ago. 

The gold figure on top once rotated following the the position of the sun.

You ascend the Monument in a glass-walled lift to stunning panormaic views

The Neutrality Monument is set in stunning grounds set out in geometric symetry

As well as the Neutrality Monument, which was relocated from the centre of the city some time ago, we drove past or visited many of the monuments.  We oggled and marvelled. We ascended the Neutraliy tower for a magnificent panoramic view. The landscaping around the tower is quite stunning in its geometric symmetry albeit still in relative infancy. Also we drove past the imposing Statue of the President Arkadag mounted on a golden horse riding a white marble wave!  The Yyldyz swanky hotel and many luxury apartment complexes.  All are elaborate and glittering but are somewhat topped by the Palace of Happiness or Wedding Palace which has amongst other 'essential' luxury spaces, three wedding halls two of which hold 500 guests and one that has the capacity to seat 1000 guests. The Turkmanistani people know how to celebrate in style! 

The wedding palace - the Palace of Happiness

Yyldyz Hotel

Statue of President Arkadag

Most the building and monements are symbolic. A new 5-star hotel in the shape of a flame - I'm not sure the symbolism of that, perhaps money from gas.  The design of Government buildings reflects their purpose. For example the Department of Medicine is in the shape of a cobra. The gas and fuel building is in the shape of a cigarette lighter - even though smoking is banned!

Bronze and gold statues of Turken leaders at the base of the monument to Independence

This is the monument to Independence

Poor angle but this is the Medical building built in the shape of a cobra

Eternal mother blessing all those who went to war (I think!)

The War Memorial

A monument to the victims of war and the earthquake. A child on top represents the esident who lost his mother in the earthquake

Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque

There are more sober monuments and space such as the Halk Hakydasy Memorial Complex which honours the victims of the Great Patriotic War and the devastating 1948 earthquake in Ashgabat.  The war memorial - I don't recall which war but perhaps the Great Patriotic War of 1941-1945.  And topping these huge edifaces is Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque one of the largest in Central Asia - it has space for 20,000 people.  Nestled beside it is a mausoleum for Saparmurat Niyazov, leader of Turkmenistan from 1985 to 2006.

It is all thoroughly exhausting but mighty impressive and just in case you missed the other amazing monuments and palaces, in the centre of most roundabouts there are rather stunning artworks!

(Through the car window)

While its capital is a modern metropolis, Turkmenistan has emerged from a complex and very ancient history. From Parthians, Sogdians, Aryans, Zoroastrians and many epochs of domination including Alexander the Great, Genghis Khan and Timur. It is a real melting pot and this is reflected in the faces of people who have as their ancestors Persians, Greeks, Arabs, Mongols and course Turkmen. Their language is based on Turkic, a language which forms the basis of many languages across much of the area including Turkey (which also had a finger in the pie at some point). 

I can’t leave Ashgabat without telling you about Nisa ..... more anon ....