Bruny Island - a quiet escape 29 March to 4 April
We returned to Bruny after 4 years to search for the 40 spotted pardalote - well Lindsay did, but really we were there because we love the quietness of the island and again we camped at Adventure Bay, South Bruny. The twin-set of islands - North and South - are joined by a narrow neck of land little more than the width of a dirt road and beach at some points and no greater than 50 meters. Over 6 days we explored from one end of duo to the other - and took another wildlife cruise. Of course!
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Togged up like red penguins on the Pennicott Wilderness cruise |
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Monument Rock in the South Bruny National Park.
The boat went through that narrow passage - exciting! |
The cruise took us passed the towering dolerite cliffs - some of the most imposing in the world, deep sea caves and blow holes of Fluted Cape, and on along the coast of South Bruny National Park. We then turned south away from the island and zoomed out to The Friars, island sanctuaries for fur seals and sea birds. The rocks were a seething mass of sleek brown bodies hefting themselves around, diving in and climbing out of the roiling sea, bickering, arguing and playing with each other. Beautiful creatures! The birds, mainly black faced cormorants, sat on bird-snow encrusted rocks silent sentinels to the silly antics of the seals. The Friars mark where the Tasman meets the Southern Ocean.
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'Breathing Rock' explodes water every minute |
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Rough water off Friars Islands |
It was exhilarating banging along just skimming the peaks of the big ocean swells. We were looking for fish and birds. And we found them! Great swooping, soaring albatross, rather magnificent things! Short-tailed Shearwaters dipped and fluttered, glided and turned along side our boat. Great circles 40 m across boiled with masses of fish obviously driven up to the surface from the deep by who knows what big fish herding them together for a feed.
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Australia fur seals sunning themselves on the jagged rocks - ouch!
they have their own inbuilt Sealy Posturepedic (groan!) |
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The icing on the cake! Cormorant heaven on one of The Friars |
Back on land, we took a slightly beaten track first along the beach and then through woodlands to Grassy Point, a mere stone's throw from Penguin island and walked from there over the cliff through to look down on the wild sea bashing against the rocks of Fluted Cape.
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The lump top right is Penguin island. Not because it has any penguins
living on it but because an early explorer saw a Macaroni penguin (one!)
as they sailed into Adventure Bay. |
After a few days of patchy rain (and some snow on high peaks) we took a walk through coastal heath and eucalypt forests on Point Labillardiere, in the South Bruny National Park. I felt a little like Maria on the alps- the hills were almost alive with the sound of music. Tra la la ......: totally alone - it seemed! The heathland was a panoramic Pandora's box of tiny coloured shapes. Flowers and plants I couldn't name but of a myriad of colours and shapes. The walk ended with stretches along the hard packed sand of hidden coves. Oh la! Brings out the inner poet ..... hmmm.
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The walk on Point Labillardiere. The heathland was so wild and beautiful. |
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We emerged out of the forest to walk along secluded beaches |
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We felt like we were the only people alive. Glorious! |
Lindsay went searching through white gum scrub for the elusive 40 spotted pardalote and saw one briefly. They remain entirely elusive, a draw card to return. And there are still many walks to do and places to explore or rediscover like Cape Queen Elizabeth.
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