June 20-22 2016  Moscow Moscow dah dah dah ........ 

One of the things we missed seeing on our train journey was the Ural Mountains. It was a little disappointing as they mark the transition from Asia to Europe and take me back to enjoyable geography lessons at high school, but what can you do? we crossed them in the dead of night. However ......Moscow! 

This could only be Moscow!

It is huge, almost overwhelming, architecturally grand, crowded, fascinating, elegant in a way that redefines 'cosmopolitan'. Famous names, buildings and historic events confronted us at every corner. We walked and walked taking in the heart of Moscow from Red Square and the Kremlin to the magnificent Metro stations with their mosaics and sculptures. Dimitri, like all our Russian guides, was very knowledgeable and had a deep passion for his country. Our Russian guides all had tertiary degrees in languages, tourism etc and they were always open to probing questions so we felt very fortunate.

A different perspective on this fantastic cathedral

The big highlight for me, well there were two actually, but the first - St Basil's cathedral! Wow and again wow! We visited it two days in a row. First to walk the perimeter and take lots of photos and simply soak in its beauty and then to return the following day to explore its inner depths. It was a Lewis Carroll dream in living colour - cupolas of  brightly coloured boiled lollies of giant proportions, domes of colour and phantasmagorical patterns - I walked around with my mouth hanging open. Everywhere you looked was something new - turn a corner and look up and there's another dome or spire or new roof perspective, a different pattern painted or carved and almost hidden in a small alcove or high under a lofty domed ceiling a quirky totally unnecessary decoration tucked into an unexpected spot. What a fantasy place! We climbed narrow spiral stairs between floors and in one magic moment I turned a corner in a narrow passage way and heard the most beautiful singing. One could have imagine that Angels live in this glorious place and do nothing but sing with joy or sorrow. But no, it was a small group of monks lost in a Gregorian chant which echoed down through the darkness of this one frescoed passage in the vast labyrinth of curved passages and rooms.

It is everything people say it is - and more!

In the end of course, we had to leave but it was a 'bucket list' day for me. Why? because as well as visiting this magical place, which incidentally was built to celebrate vanquishing the Mongols, we visited a few underground Metro stations. Words fail me as always, but the stations we visited lived up to my expectations. Intricate mosaics and bas-relief sculptures, massive bronze statutes gleaming gold where people touch them every day on their way to and from work - a boys knee, a dogs nose and so on for luck or peace. All the images and cameos told the history of Moscow and Russia. They are palaces for the people, history and art museums built into everyday life. 

I have forgotten so much of the history and certainly the dates except for one that still amazes. Russia was baptised as a Christian nation in the 17th century. Why I didn't know this I can't imagine. I had imaged its Christian orthodox roots went a long way back in history. I am determined to read more Russian history (as well as of that of Armenia and Georgia but more of that later). If I have it wrong I wouldn't be surprised as we have been almost overwhelmed with information but it seems that around this time Christianity made a push into the lands of  Slavic tribal groups and aboriginal  lands of what we know as Siberia.

Absolutely beautiful full of marble, chandeliers and mirrors. Opened in 1901.

 We had our Moscow guide for an entire day and what a day! We headed out at 9am (after our 4am arrival!) and didn't stop till after 7pm. After a whirl wind day of walking around buildings, the Metro, Red Square etc etc and a visit to Moscow's oldest supermarket, Gastronomia Eliseevsky, our journey of discovery with Dimitri wrapped up with a visit to a most unusual place. Tsiferblat, a coffee 'shop' where you pay for time spent there rather than what you consume.  It felt a little like a secret club - ring a bell on the wall and you are let into an old building, climb the stairs and knock - no password require but it felt like that. Once inside you are greeted warmly, told to select a clock all of which are named (ours was Eva) and that is recorded with the time and your name and then you simple wander until you find a corner to your liking, make yourself a drink and chill out.  We were entertained by two different pianists, casual, spontaneous, just enjoying themselves playing for no one in particular. All very arty and rather reminiscent of the atmosphere of the coffee shops of the 60s, but one could image Dostoyevsky and Pushkin lounging there engrossed in philosophical debate.

This small plaque on the wall with an intercom. Enter via an ordinary door in an apartment building, mount the stairs and there it is -  Tsiferblat

The next day we headed out again in our own to negotiate our way through the Metro to spend time on the Red tourist bus for a more global view of the city.  We ended up spending at least 5 hours in a whirl wind tour which took in history, architecture, politics, religion etc. All too much to relate here - even if one could remember it all! But we saw old and ancient history celebrated in bronze statues in prime positions on front of new modern edifices, examples of architecture like the 'Seven Sisters' from Stalinist time reaching above the horizon like adornments on a crown. Moscow's architecture was strongly influenced by some of the wonderful buildings of early 20th century USA - the Chrysler and Flat Iron buildings for example.

The following day was our last in Russia and we had but a morning to snatch a last look at this intriguing city. We visited the Izmaylovo markets. Borrowed I am sure from children's literature, it is a conglomeration of fantasy shapes and images ..... Google it! A crowded colourful and typical market to tempt tourists and locals alike. We had no room in our cases to buy anything but the draw card really was the roof of the market.

The roofline of this market is phantasmagorical

So ended our wonderful sojourn in Russia.