The Cape is so beautiful - rivers slow and cool running
though vaulted canopies of tropical rainforest, coconut and pandanus palms,
eucalypts, sandalwood, frangipani, bush/beach almonds and so many other tree species,
lush grasses of every imaginable colour of green and brown growing metres high,
dragon flies from red through almost every colour to startling blue,
butterflies as big as small birds - one species we watched for ages vivid
black, green, yellow and red with the female black, silver, cream and red.
David Attenborough, when he visited the area, said he would select these to go
in his ‘Ark’. We visited as many of the Cape’s secluded and idyllic beaches as
we could get to safely - wandering among sponges, coral, cuttlefish and pumice,
tried to have a conversation with a ‘hippie’ camped on the beach but he seemed
only to be able to manage a babble of psychedelic phrases, scraped vines from old
graves stones to read about early explorers in the area. We took a ferry to
lazy friendly Thursday Island where we lunched at Australia’s most northern pub
and where we were personally serenaded with a welcome song in TI and English by
a darling old man (90 odd). He, Seaman Dan, had been a pearl diver in
Australia's north and Indian Ocean islands all his life. We've gazed at
dazzling sunsets, coastlines rimmed by mangroves, water so clear and beautiful
but too deadly to dip into. And the Tip - yes we made it by foot after walking
along the beach, passing a small forest of mangroves with a wary eye out for
large moving objects with big teeth! and clambering over high rocks. About 1K later we arrived at the very tippy
tip of the continent and were greeted by a huge sail fish leaping high out of
the water in a welcoming salute as well as by a large green turtle who popped
his head up to say hello. Lindsay explored an alternative way back from the Tip
which ran us into the water and impassable rocks (for me at least) so we had to
climb up a rock face to find a different route.
Hard work and nerve ranking for me but we made it and then clambered down
on to the sand and the receding tide once again keeping a careful eye out for
crocs. A real buzz experience! And to
top it off we saw a few palm cockatoos.
The list of wonders goes on and on. Camping in bush
settings and being woken by the maniacal song of the gorgeous blue-winged
kookaburras and the thud of horses clomping around the van. There are so many free grazing/wild horses at
Pajinka 'owned' by the local indigenous. They (the horses!) are as sleek and
fat as seals and simply beautiful. One
day (while camped at Loyalty Beach) we watch a few of them jostling to get
under the sprinkler. Really! One totally hogged it standing over it with
his mouth open to catch the water and then letting it play over his chest and
shoulders. The others slurped at the tap and tried to push him off to get a
turn, he didn't give ground but copped a few bites for being unfriendly. Hilarious to watch. But all things come to an
end and all too soon it was time for us to leave.
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